We’ve bred Ruby with, Cooper, a stud we’ve used in the past. Both dame and sire are proven hunters on Alaska game birds. They also both travel outside to hunt pheasant, quail and chukar.

Order for pick of the litter is based on the date we receive your deposit. Interested in a puppy? Please complete our puppy questionnaire.

Pedigree information is available on request. 

We bred Ruby with Flint which resulted in a lot of liver and white puppies. Both Ruby and Flint are proven hunters. 

Order for pick of the litter is based on the date we receive your deposit. Interested in a puppy? Please complete our puppy questionnaire.

See more pictures and video on our Facebook page. 

Pedigree information is available on request. 

We’ve bred Ruby to a great liver and white stud, “Rex”. Kansas T-Rex, or Rex, works on a hunting preserve and hunts almost daily. He’s got fantastic lines (including Nolan’s Last Bullet and McCandless Titlest Driver). 

Order for pick of the litter is based on the date we receive your deposit. Interested in a puppy? Please complete our puppy questionnaire.

Pedigree information is available on request. 

We’re currently working on:

• sit (it’s a little challenging with nine “students”, but they are getting the hang of it)
• coming to a  whistle
• meeting lots of different visitors
• kennel/crate introduction

Soon we’ll be showing them the doggie door. Shortly after that, time in a kennel by themselves.

Here’s some recommendations we have for new owners.

1. Shop your local thrift or second hand stores for old towels or fleece blankets to use as crate bedding.
   • We don’t recommend putting a bed in your pups crate until they are farther along in the crate training process. It offers a washable (and, if needed, disposable) option.
2. Get a smaller crate.
   • Or use plywood or plastic to make a big crate smaller. Puppies don’t want to soil where they sleep, give them to much room, and you are inviting trouble.
3. Start puppy proofing – or at least thinking about it.
   • We’ve never had one of our Brittanys chew up a pair of shoes. A big part of that, is we didn’t give them opportunities to chew on shoes as a pup.
4. Check your houseplants.
   • Some common house plants are poisonous to dogs.
5. Decide on a common language.
   • If you have multiple family members in your house, think about what words or hand gestures you want to use for commands. It will help the puppy learn quicker, if everyone is using consistent commands.
6. Find your vet.
   • If you don’t have a vet already now is the time to do your homework. Very shortly after going home, your pup will need booster shots.
7. Find a puppy kindergarten.
   • You can certainly train your pup by yourself, but we always recommend going to some classes with them. You’ll learn new ways to communicate with your dog. You’ll practice your new skills in between classes. Your puppy will have a chance to socialize with other dogs in a safe setting. They will also learn to pay attention to you when there is a lot of distraction. Check your local options (as well as the vaccinations and age requirements).
8. Ask questions.
   • We’re here to answer questions about your new pup. Don’t hesitate to ask us.

We have 5 males and 4 females. Henry is the sire. He is registered with both the AKC and the American Field Dog Stud Book. Copper is AKC registered. We’ve registered the litter, so you can register your puppy if you choose.

New owners start choosing their pups around 4/5 weeks old (we base pick of the litter on the order deposits are received). They will be ready for their new homes around May 14. They will be vet checked and up to date on shots/worming.

This is Copper’s third litter. Be sure to check out our facebook page for more photos and updates.

Contact us to learn more about this litter. 

Just wanted to show you what a beautiful dog Reba Ruby has turned out to be! Can’t believe she is a year old already! She has been such a joy – she has been out on our lake boat, road on a quad, and has traveled all over with us since we got her last August. Oh, and when we take her to play days at ABC in Fairbanks, she often gets to play with a littermate I am told. Small world. Thank you again for breeding such wonderful dogs!

Hank’s 1 year old today. Thank you for the best pup we could ever ask for!!

Ally is a great dog, really family oriented. We live out of town so she has plenty of room to run.  She is a real hunter.  Loves the tall grass looking for voles.  Any bird is an opportunity to chase.  Attached is a picture of Ally in May in our yard. Thanks and I cannot tell you how much we love her.  She loves to follow my daughter around outside.  It is so sweet to see.

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When they are with their litter mates, puppies play by wrestling and nipping each other. It is natural to them to play with their humans in the same way. But what puppies don’t know is how sharp their teeth are and how much those nips can hurt! Other dogs and litter mates teach puppies when they bite to hard by stopping play. If mom is playing with the puppies and they bite to hard, she’ll likely get up and leave. Litter mates will likely yelp and stop playing. If we follow these same techniques, it can be easier to to eliminate puppy nipping. If your pup starts to biting to hard, let them know that is not acceptable by stopping play until they’ve calmed down a bit.

We also encourage you to teach any children that will be around your Brittany pup to “be a tree.” Kids and puppies easily get excited together, which can lead to a puppy to start playing to rough. Children tend to run or retreat when puppies get too rough. The puppy thinks this is more play and starts to chase the child. To learn more about the “Be a Tree” program, visit the DoggoneSafe.com website.

Teaching Gentle

Another good exercise for your puppy is to teach them the gentle command. This is a great all around command and can help reinforce a soft mouth. For this one, we like to use a clicker and some high value treats. Take a small amount of whatever dog treat you choose and and hold it in your fist. If you’re using your clicker, have it ready in the other hand. Let your puppy sniff your hand. They are going to smell a good treat and may try to bite your hand to get to the treat. Don’t give in! As soon as your pup starts to realize that they can’t get the treat that way, they’ll likely start to lick. This is when you click or praise, and give them the treat. Repeat and remember to keep the treat portions small. Add in the “gentle” command, or whatever wording you want to use.

Here are some of the top things you can do to make house/potty training your new pup easier on everyone.

• Take your puppy outside frequently to their potty area. This means every 30-45 minutes at least, and at key times (after waking, after being in their kennel, before going in their kennel, after eating/drinking).
• Reward your puppy with a special treat when they eliminate in the correct spot.
• Don’t take them inside immediately after they eliminate. Allow for some outside play time. You don’t want your puppy to learn to hold it so they can stay outside longer.
• Don’t punish your pup for accidents.
• Keep your puppy on a schedule. Keeping track of when your pup eats and drinks, helps you anticipate their need to eliminate.
• Know when you puppy last went potty. If you’re in a household with multiple puppy caregivers – you might consider making a simple log sheet to keep by the door.

You want to set the puppy up for success. Pick a spot in your yard where you want the puppy to potty. By taking your puppy to the same general area every time, you are signaling to your puppy that you are outside to potty (as opposed to play) and that this is the accepted area to potty. The smell may also prompt your pup to potty. While you are outside with your pup, watch for signs that he or she needs to eliminate. These can be pacing, whining, circling, sniffing or leaving the area (room). Once you learn your puppy’s signs, it will make it easier for you to anticipate their need to eliminate.

When inside, your puppy should be closely supervised. If needed, put up baby gates or close doors to confine the puppy to the room you are in. If the puppy must be left unsupervised, they should be put in a kennel or crate. In general, a puppy can “hold it” for the same number of hours as their age in month. So your two month old puppy should be able to hold it for two hours. This is a good rule of thumb. Through the night, , since they are inactive, puppies can hold it for longer. We do recommend crating your puppy at night and letting them out once during the night if possible until they develop the bladder and bowel control to hold it all night.

If you catch your puppy eliminating inside, call their name or clap your hands. You want to get the pup’s attention and hopefully he or she will stop mid-stream. Then grab your puppy and take him/her to the outside potty area. When they go potty outside reward them with praise and perhaps a small treat. If you find the accident after the fact – don’t scold your pup. They won’t connect your scolding to going to the bathroom in the house.

We employe they good potty/bad potty method. It has worked very well for us when used in combination with the bell. If you find an accident in the house, scold the potty as you start to clean it up. “Bad potty. Potty goes outside.” Do this when your puppy is around, but be very clear that you are scolding the potty, not your puppy. Then take the potty, or what you used to clean it up with outside to the area you want your pup to eliminate. You then praise the potty. “Good potty. Potty goes outside.” If you can, leave the rag or paper towels you cleaned with outside for a few days. This smell will help your puppy “find” their potty spot outside. You will feel silly when you do this, especially if you have neighbors close by, or happen to pocket dial a co-worker during the process (learned from experience on the second one folks).

We also use the bell method – which allows our dog to learn to give us an audible signal that they need to go outside.

Hang a bell on the door(s) you’ll most frequently be taking the puppy out of the house. You want the bell to be low enough that your pup can reach it with his or her nose. We used pea cord to attach our bell to the door handle, it could easily be adjusted as our pups grew. Show your puppy the bell and encourage him or her to ring the bell, by luring their nose to it with a treat.

From here on out, every time you take your puppy outside, you encourage them to ring the bell and ring the bell yourself if needed. You can also encourage your pup to ring the bell by smearing a small amount of cheese or peanut butter on the bell. There will be a time when your puppy rings the bell just because they want to go outside. It is key to remain consistent in letting the puppy out when he or she rings the bell. You’ll make some extra trips outside, but in the end it will be worth it.

A couple of things to remember:

• Most puppies are not 100% reliable until 6 months of age or older.
• Watch your puppy carefully when taking them to new places. When at the pet store, or your friend’s home, your pup may not recognize the new environment as an unacceptable place to potty.
• Be aware of new things in your home (especially with male puppies). Your puppy may not have accidents in the garage any more. But then you bring home a new 4-wheeler and park it in the garage. If he is allowed to, or used to peeing on tires outside, he may not recognize that it’s not okay to pee on this tire just because it’s in the garage – especially if another dog has already done so.
• There are other reasons your puppy might house soil. These can include urine making, separation anxiety, submissive urination or medical reasons. If your puppy has been reliably eliminating outside and starts having accidents inside, you might want to talk to your vet to make sure there isn’t a medical cause that needs to be addressed. We’ll talk about these more in another post.

And we’ll close with a couple of things not to do.

• Don’t scold your pup for having an accident. Don’t rub their nose in it. Don’t physically punish your pup. Initially, it is your fault your puppy went to the bathroom inside. You either didn’t take him or her out frequently enough, failed to recognize or ignored his signals that he needed to go outside.
• Don’t confine your puppy to a small are for several hours out of the day. We recognize that people work and often have to leave their pups alone for  8+ hours a day. If at all possible, come home on your lunch break, or ask a friend or neighbor to take out your pup during the day until they are a little bit older.
• Don’t clean with ammonia based cleaners. Urine contains ammonia, which could attract your pup to urinate in that same spot again. We prefer Nature’s Miracle.

Above all, have patience. Your puppy is still learning your world. It’s up to you to be a consistent, positive teacher. Don’t expect to much from your puppy and don’t get discouraged if they relapse a little bit.

Are you having house/potty training issues that we haven’t mentioned? Let us know your questions.

It takes some time for your new pup to settle in. For his or her entire life, they’ve been surrounded by 9 other puppies. Their mom (and grandparents) have been there. The same 2 people are caring for them. Sure they’ve had visitors and played with kids, but for short amounts of time.

Everything is new for your puppy. While we try to expose our pups to as much as we can, it’s still so different at your house. It doesn’t smell right (yet). This is why we send our pups home with a towel that’s been in the kennel with their littermates for part of the day. It offers some reassurance and familiarity in this new situation.

Brittanys are adaptable dogs, but we want to make this transition easier for them. Try not to introduce them to too much at once. Resist showing your new pup off to friends and family members for a few days (if possible). Give your new pup as much of YOUR time as you can manage. Help them explore their new surroundings in manageable chunks.

Please remember that puppies explore with their mouths. It is your job to continue to teach them what is acceptable. We work on “no bite” and redirect them to toys, but they haven’t experienced any real amount of unsupervised time in an area where they have access to things they aren’t supposed to chew on (like your shoes).

We recommend periods of kennel time and supervised exploration/family time. The kennel time helps to kennel train your pup and give them a bit of a break from all the stimulation. They will probably whine at first, but they will start to settle down and relax. Immediately after you let your pup out of the kennel, take him or her outside to potty. Then it’s time to explore and play. Give your puppy another potty break before putting him or her back in the kennel.

Your puppy will have accidents in the house. If they eat or drink water, they will need to go to the bathroom very shortly. Don’t wait! Just go ahead and take them outside. When they wake up from a nap – take them outside. After they’ve been playing for a while – take them outside.

Part of successfully training a puppy or dog, is to set them up for success. The puppies don’t know what we want from them. We have to teach it to them. The easiest way to do that is to give them the best opportunities to do things the right way, and reward them when they do it. By taking them outside immediately after eating or drinking, we are setting the puppy to complete the desired behavior – to potty outside. We can reward them with a treat, praise or play time with a toy.

Puppy proof your home  and remove “temptation” when possible. Close your closet door, so your pup can’t get to your shoes. Don’t leave them unsupervised in a room they can get into trouble in. Again – set your puppy up to succeed.

Once your puppy has had a few days to adjust to their new environment, start exposing them to as much as you can – but in small doses. Let them play in a puddle before taking them to the river to swim. Many pet stores and even some home improvement stores let you bring dogs inside. This is a great way to expose your puppy to all sorts of sights, sounds and smells. Take them for a walk around your neighborhood or to the park. Show them off to your family and friends.

Remember, when you let your puppy “get away” with things, like jumping up, you are reinforcing to the puppy that this is ok behavior. It’s so easy to give that cute little puppy some attention when they jump on you, but it’s better for you to ignore the pup until he or she is sitting or has all four feet on the floor.

We’ll get into more details in upcoming blog posts on things like kennel training, potty training and other behavioral training.

Grooming

Brushes – We use a couple of different brushes on our dogs. For regular grooming, we use a natural bristle brush. We recommend brushing your dog once per week, more often if they are spending a lot of time in the field. Regular brushing has a couple of advantages. First it helps keep dog hair out of your house. Secondly, it’s bonding time with your puppy. It also is good for your Brittany pup to be used to grooming. Depending on where you live, after a run in the field, your puppy may have burs, stickers or other “debris” in caught in their coat. You’ll want to remove these to prevent irritation (especially in tender areas like the armpits and groin). If you’re dog is used to brushing, it’s easier on both of you when it comes time to remove the debris.

We like a deshedding tool/brush during times of the year when Brittanys tend to shed more. It helps grab those loose hairs and keeps close to the brush which makes for easy clean up.

Nail Clippers – We start trimming puppy nails with regular toenail clippers. By the time you pick up your puppy they will have already had their nails trimmed several times. We recommend you keep this up. It’s much easer to trim nails as they grow older, if the get used to it as a pup. We have our dogs lie on their back in between our legs. They get lots of belly rubs between nail clips. You can also have your dog sit or stand and lift the foot up while you trim the nails. Again, it’s a chance to bond with your pup as well. When it’s time to move to dog nail clippers, we prefer the scissor trimmers that have a guide. They guide can help prevent you from cutting the nail to short – which is very painful and will bleed profusely.

We also recommend a battery operated electric nail trimmer/shaper. We only use these after we’ve cut the nail to smooth out any sharp or rough edges. Introduce your pup to these slowly and be sure to follow the instructions provided to avoid injuring your pup’s nails.

Toothbrush & Toothpaste – These usually come in kits with a finger brush, a double ended toothbrush and flavored toothpaste. We start our dogs out with the finger brush to allow them to get used to it. Then we use a mix of the finger brush and the tooth brush as they get older.

Puppy Shampoo – We don’t have any specific recommendations for a brand of puppy shampoo. We actually use puppy shampoo on our grown dogs (unless they’ve gotten into something particularly smelly). Don’t use people shampoo on dogs or puppies. It can strip the natural oils from their coat leading to dry skin and irritation.

It’s also handy to have dog wipes. Similar to baby wipes, these allow you to quickly wipe your pup down. They are great for traveling (in case your pup gets carsick or has an accident) and are handy for muddy days.

Potty Training

Nature’s Miracle or other carpet cleaner – Your puppy will have accidents, so carpet cleaner is a must have. Nature’s Miracle has a whole line of cleaning products is specially formulated to remove odors and stains. Even though you may not be able to smell “left-over” odors from where your puppy has had an accident, your puppy can. If you notice that your pup’s accidents are happening in the same spots, it’s likely that there are lingering scents.

Bells – We’ve had great luck with bell training our dogs. We hang a bell off the door knob (we used a bear bell from Safeway) that is low enough for the puppy to reach with their nose. Ring it every time you take your puppy outside. Help you puppy ring the bell with their nose. They’ll learn to associate the bell with going outside, and as they grow older it gives them a way to notify you they need to go without scratching your door or barking.

Toys & Bones

Stuffed Toys –  We like dog toys without stuffing, like Skinneeez dog toys. They don’t have any stuffing, so if your pup tears it up, you don’t have to clean up the mess, or worry about your pup eating the stuffing. They do have a squeaker, which is a concern if your puppy tears up the toy.

Since Henry feels the need to immediately destroy any toy he gets his paws on, we’ve also bought stuffed animals at the thrift store. We open them up and remove the stuffing, then stitch it back together, and wash them on a hot cycle in the washer to sanitize them. If you go this route, be sure to find stuffed animals in good condition, and ones that do not have buttons or beads for eyes. They present a choking hazard for your dog. Another benefit to this, is that they don’t have squeakers. At our house, toys without squeakers seem to last a bit longer.

Twisted Ropes/Knot Toys – These toys are great for teething puppies, but be sure to keep a close eye on them. Once the start to unravel, they can become a hazard for intestinal blockage. We also suggest resisting the urge to play tug-of-war with your pup. Ideally you want your puppy to learn to surrender a toy when you tell them to “drop.” This is an important thing for them to learn, as they grow there may be several things you want them to drop (food, shoes, something they found in the woods or at the dog park). This is especially important for hunting dogs – you want your dogs to return the bird to hand and not play tug-of-war with your soon to be table fair. It is okay to let them play tug with other dogs.

Veterinarians & Training

Choose your vet – Choosing your vet can take a couple of tries. Ideally, you want a vet that you are comfortable with and is convenient for you. Don’t feel bad if you try a new vet and aren’t pleased with them. Ask your friends with pets for recommendations. It’s nice to know what they like about their vets – are they conservative, do they explain things well, do they offer boarding at their facilities, is there overnight staff, etc.

We do recommend finding a vet that offers after hours and emergency services. In bigger cities, this may be more common than in rural areas. It is nice to know that if your puppy has health issues after hours, that you can call your vet and get them seen if needed.

Choose you puppy kindergarden – Like choosing a vet, you need to find a trainer that fits with you and your pup. If you aren’t sure, ask to sit in on a class (with or without your pup) and see how things work. Most people can tell after a short visit if it will work for them. We’ve taken all of our dogs to puppy classes. One of the most important things you can teach your puppy, is to listen to you when there are distractions – like other dogs. Puppy classes are a great safe environment to practice that in. It also helps train you to train your dog. There are lots of things we can do to teach our pups bad habits without even realizing it.

Other training resources – We are avid readers and watchers of other dog trainers. Go to your local library or bookstore and read some training books. Watch videos or read articles online (but please be wary of the source). We’ve had great results with Clicker training. Please remember that not all training techniques work for all dogs – or for all people for that matter. Try out new things and you’ll learn what works for you and your pups.

Containment

Leashes – I cannot stress the importance of teaching your dog to heel and walk on a loose leash. It’s so easy to not leash train a puppy – they tend to follow you everywhere. But then you end up with a grown dog that pulls when you walk. It can be dangerous for both of you, not to mention unenjoyable! It can take a long time and be one of the more frustrating aspects of dog training – but it is extremely important!

We recommend starting with a 6 foot leash. Until your pup is leash trained, we don’t recommend retractable leashes. It’s too easy to be “lazy” and stand in one spot while your pup wanders around. Not a big deal when they are puppies, but again, not much fun when they are full grown, wrapping their leash around trees and park benches (or your legs). Leash training is one of the best things you can teach your pup!

Fencing – Ideally you’ll have a fenced in area for your dog to play in. This gives you a safe area to work on off leash training and a place for your pup to play and hang out. Be sure to check your fence for any stray wires or fence ties that a collar could get hung up on. Make sure your dog can’t jump over your fence (or isn’t tempted to try). It’s a good idea to start out with supervised time in a fenced in yard, then graduate to small blocks of unsupervised time.

If you don’t have a fence, there are places in town that you may be able to use to work on off leash training. Some dog parks have fenced areas. Check with your local Parks and Recreation department – soccer fields, ball fields and tennis courts may be an option. Just make sure to clean up after your pup.

 Wireless Fence – We have a PetSafe Wireless fence and love it. It consists of a small transmitter, a collar and some marking flags. Our dogs were already used to e-collars when we bought the unit, so it was quick and easy to train them. The transmitter has an adjustable range and the collars have adjustable stimulation levels. Additional collars can be purchased (including a stubborn dog option – though we don’t personally know anyone that’s needed it). When you first set up the unit, you walk around with the collar to learn your perimeter. Place the flags along your perimeter to give you dog a visual of where their boundaries are. The collar beeps when the dog gets close to the perimeter, if the dog continues outside the perimeter, they receive a mild shock. The unit comes with training instructions and PetSafe has some setup and training videos on their website.

We take this unit with us when we travel during hunting season. We can set it up, show our dogs the perimeter, and they have a safe place to hang out outside. One side note, is that the unit does use electricity. I can’t give a specific cost per month, but we did notice an increase in our bill once we started using the unit.

We’re not saying you need to rush out and buy everything on this list. In fact some items, like the wireless fence, we don’t recommend using on young puppies. We just wanted to share with you the tools we’ve found helpful. Believe me, I went through several dog brushes before I found ones that worked well for us (the same thing with e-collars).  As always, please contact us if you’ve got a question about any of the items we mentioned or about your new Brittany pup!