After cleaning the wound, we apply antibiotic ointment or a similar gel (we also like Vetericyn spray gel). The antibiotic ointments/gels not only help to reduce the chance of infection, but act as a barrier to contaminants and help to keep your bandages from sticking to the wound. Then we apply bandages – usually gauze wraps. Remember that if a cut is bleeding profusely, you will need to apply pressure with your hand or by applying a pressure bandage.

Not all wounds can be easily bandaged, like cuts on the face or chest. Flush these wounds, apply ointment or gel and hold a bandage on the wound with pressure to stop the bleeding. Keep pressure on the wound for 5-10 minutes. Slowly remove the bandage to check that bleeding has stopped.

If blood is spurting from a wound, this indicates arterial bleeding. This is a serious situation, apply direct pressure to the wound and get your dog to a vet as soon as possible.

Puncture wounds have a higher risk of infection, so if possible, it’s better to let these bleed a little. However, if your dog is losing a lot of blood from a puncture wound, stopping the bleeding would trump the infection risk.

Field care is important, but if your hunting dog has a severe cut (or several) that needs vet treatment, don’t waste a lot of time on field care. A quick rinse, ointment or gel and a quick bandage are all good steps to take in the field, but not if those measures cause a significant delay in getting your dog to the vet.

If we know we are going on a remote trip, we’ll ask our vet for a broad spectrum antibiotic. This can be very useful if you are days away from a vet when you are hunting. It’s also a good idea to talk to your vet prior to your trip. They can give you more field care advice and address any concerns specific to your dog.

Depending on the severity of the cut or puncture, your dog may need to go to the vet for stitches or additional treatment. If you don’t take your dog to the vet, closely monitor the wound to ensure that it is healing properly. Watch for signs on infection. Remember that the placement of a cut, can cause it to heal slower (a cut in the “armpit” will likely heal slower than a similar cut on the chest). If you have concerns about how your dog is healing, talk to your vet.

We often encounter briar and cocklebur patches, and the dogs don’t hesitate when they scent a bird or are on a retrieve. Paw pad injuries are not as common as you would think, but they do happen. So you notice your hunting dog limping in the field, what do you do?

First inspect the foot and pad. Is there a visible abrasion or puncture wound? Be sure to check the webbed skin between their pads. Thorns and burs in that area can be hard to find, and left alone can turn into a big problem. Here’s the steps we follow for pad injuries.

• Rinse the foot and pad with clean water to remove any debris or foreign objects (dirt, rocks, glass, metal, etc.)
• Remove any thorns or burs you find
• Rinse with Betadine or similar antiseptic
• Apply antibiotic ointment
• Bandage the foot
• Rest your dog
• Evaluate the need for further veterinary treatment

During the course of treatment, we may also use a Betadine or epsom salt soak. It’s a good time to inspect the healing progress and our brittanys don’t seem to mind them.

You’ll need to wrap the entire foot to ensure the bandage stays in place. But the most important thing you can do for your dog is give him time to heal. Pad injuries often lead to limping and prolonged limping can lead to other musculoskeletal issues.

Preventing pad injuries isn’t easy. Dog boots get mixed reviews – some say the protect dog’s feet and prevent injuries, while others say the dog can’t feel the ground and may not draw their foot back if they step on something sharp.  We recommend regularly exposing your dogs to rough surfaces throughout the year for short periods of time. This helps the pads “toughen up” with minimal risk of injury. Ask your vet if you have any questions about suitable surfaces (fine gravel, concrete, sand, etc.)

Remember, a lame dog can’t hunt. So be sure to take care of your brittany’s feet and pads.

Toenail injuries are very common in dogs. All dogs, not just hunting dogs. A dog can just as easily tear a nail on the carpet or a chain link fence as he can in the field.

Dog nails are very sensitive (just like our own), especially when there has been a trauma that exposes the quick, the area that contains the blood vessels and nerves. Often times, torn or split nails heal well on their own. It pays to keep a close eye on them as intervention can be necessary.

If a dog injures a toenail in the field, we follow this process:

• Rinse nail with fresh water or saline (preferred)
• Apply styptic powder (or even flour) to help stop bleeding
• Head back to the truck for some rest and further evaluation
• If we can safely trim the nail or broken part of the nail we will do so
• Bandage or wrap as necessary

Once out of the field, carefully inspect the injured nail. It’s generally ok to take a “wait and see” approach with nail injuries, but use common sense and call your vet if anything seems amiss. Excessive licking can be a sign of infection and infections may require oral antibiotics. Badly torn nails sometimes need to be removed under sedation. So if you have any doubts, call your vet.

Post field care:

• Betadine soaks
• Rest
• Monitor for infection or excessive limping

Dog Nail Injury Prevention

One of the easiest and most effective wait to prevent dog toenail injuries is to keep their nails trimmed. We recommend doing this yourself and prefer to use nail clippers with a guide. Make sure the nail clippers are appropriately sized for your dog. Regularly trimming your dog’s nails will have the added benefit of making it easier to care for an injured nail. A dog that is used to having its paws handled, will be more likely to let you handle an injured paw. Use caution and a muzzle when trimming an injured nail.

There are several pre-packaged first aid kits for sporting dogs, but you can also make your own kit. A good hunting dog first aid kit should at least include the following:

• Gauze
• First Aid Tape
• Sports Wrap or Ace Bandage
• Tweezers and needle nose pliers
• Toenail clippers – sized appropriately for your dog
• Small scissors
• Hydrogen Peroxide
• Iodine
• EMT Gel
• Styptic powder or flour
• Muzzle
• Pet First Aid Book/Guide
• Eye Wash/Saline

Common field injuries include cuts, sores, foreign objects in the eyes, nose or ears, embedded thorns, raw/cracked pads, insect bites, broken nails, falling traumas (breaks, sprains) and allergic reactions. It’s imperative that you read your pet first aid book BEFORE heading into the field, then use it as a reference while in the field.

We also include several over the counter (OTC) medicines in our kits. Talk with your vet before giving your dog any medicine that they haven’t been prescribed, to ensure the correct dosage and that there’s not a specific reason your dog shouldn’t take a medication.

The following meds are generally considered safe for healthy dogs to take:

• Tagament HB (cimetidine) – upset stomachs
• Pepcid AC (famotidine) – upset stomachs
• Aspirin – short term use for pain
• Artificial Tears
• Benadryl – for allergic reactions
• Glucosamine
• Neosporin or other antibiotic gels
• Corticosteroid sprays, gels and creams
• Antifungal sprays, gels and creams

Again, it’s important to talk with your vet about your dog taking these medications. Be sure to monitor your dog closely for signs that the illness or injury is getting worse.

If your dog is prone to specific injuries or illnesses, talk to your vet before you head out on your next hunting trip, especially if you will be traveling to hunt. If your dog commonly gets yeast ear infections, ask your vet for an anti-fungal medication. If you’re going to be hunting in a remote area, you might ask your vet for antibiotics and some pain medication.

In the coming weeks, we’ll be talking more in depth about treating common hunting injuries.

It may sound silly to some, but I’m sure many of you have hunted with a dog that won’t stop to drink water in the field. Here are some tips on keeping your hunting dog hydrated in the field:

• Train your dog at home – If you’re going to use a collapsible bowl or water bottle in the field, introduce it at home first. It can help to use a command. We say “Drink up”.
• Add a couple of pieces of kibble to your dog’s water bottle. The water will get a little cloudy, but that added smell and taste will help entice your dog to drink.
• Offer your dog water before they appear to be thirsty. It’s much better for them to drink smaller amounts more frequently than to drink a lot of water all at once.

Remember that dogs don’t sweat (except for a small amount through their footpads) . They cool themselves by panting. If your dog is reluctant to drink, at least rinse their mouth and tongue with fresh water. This will help remove some of the mucus and help them pant more effectively. Though it won’t rehydrate your dog, you can help them cool off by allowing them to go for a swim (or wade) in cool water. You can also wet them down if you have cool water available.

Only give your dog water, or water that has been flavored with a small amount of kibble. Don’t give your dog gatorade, vitamin water or other sports drinks that have electrolytes in them, as it can make dehydration worse. Dogs don’t lost electrolytes at the same rate as people do (since they sweat minimally through their footpads).

Know the signs of dehydration in dogs

It’s important to know what to look for, so you can take appropriate action. Remember that dehydration can occur at any temperature, though the risk increases the warmer the temperature is. It’s recommended that when in the field, you offer you dog water at least hourly.

Early stages:

• Excessive panting
• Slowing down their pace
• Visibly tired

Intermediate Stages:

• Skin pinch test – if you pinch the skin on your dogs back, it will be slow to “lay down” or return to it’s normal shape
• Gum test – if you press firmly on your dog’s gums, it  will slowly return to color
• Gums and tongue will appear dark in color
• Decreased urine output

Final Signs:

• Dog appears unsteady or wobbly
• Sunken eyes
• Weakness
• Collapse

If your dog is showing severe signs of dehydration, a trip to the vet is in order. A vet can give your dog intravenous (IV) fluids to aid rehydration.